All the Best Looks from the Paris Spring 2020 Runways
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Chanel

Virginie Viard is looking to keep the house of Chanel young, fun, and steadfastly Parisian. With a set built to look like the iconic rooftops of Paris, the look was based on Nouvelle Vague or New Wave. Little hats, ultra feminine mini skirts, tweedy two piece suits with cropped pants, and some well-positioned denim brought the 50s look into the now. And plenty of logo dresses will please costumers who like to wear their Chanel loud and proud.


Givenchy

Clare Waight Keller was all about the mix for Spring, citing, “fractal symmetries drawn from the botanical world entwine with a tough urban energy. From the blossoms of old-world Paris to the raw denim spirit of New York City.” That translated to leather trenches, floral gowns, volume, and street vibes. Those street vibes were most apparent in 90s denim, washed and distressed shorts, wide two-tone jeans and column skirts, the result of upcycling.


Valentino

Pierpaolo Piccioli has won over even the most cynical fashion hearts. Who doesn’t fall in love all over again over dramatic, clean, pretty white poplin dresses while Frank Ocean croons Moon River over the loudspeakers? There were also bold neon hues on familiar dramatic silhouettes, some purple sparkles, white feathers, a black shorts suit on Kaia Gerber, and an intricate white gown that illicted gasps.


Balenciaga

Demna’s Spring collection was all about power dressing, regardless of whether you’re bringing that power to the office, your art studio, or the playground. Bold shoulders are still the focus—on mini skirt suits, statement furs, and vinyl trenches. A velvet voluminous gown section with removable crinolines were a crowd favorite. But the most impactful moment in the blue room waswhat the show notes call “wearable ballroom dresses... to be worn in any setting.” Don’t mind if we do.


Thom Browne


Sacai


Altuzarra

It was the hand-knit sweaters from his grandmother and mom that inspired Altuzarra for spring. The idea of family heirlooms and handmade treasures sent the designer exploring classic wardrobe pieces and knit crochet that could stand the test of time (and generation after generation). The crochet tops and dresses mimicked the bedspreads handmade by the designer’s grandmother. The shirt dresses were inspired by the striped shirts worn by Altuzarra’s father. His mother’s afghan doilies and granny-square blankets were reimagined as colorful sleeveless tops. Given fashion’s ongoing sustainability conversation, it was an important reminder that the truly special wardrobe pieces can (and should) be able to be passed down and treasured for generations to come.


Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann has long mastered the art of androgynous style—and the designer’s Spring 2020 collection was no exception. The combined men and women’s show explored suiting (one of which was already worn by Timothy Chalamet), shorts, and red carpet-worthy gowns. The extreme cut-out tops and jackets sans anything underneath mirrored some of the more daring red carpet style as of late. But there were still more wearable pieces found in the blazers, leather pants, and polka dot dress that’s sure to be picked up as a fashion girl favorite come spring.


Celine


Nina Ricci


Balmain


Loewe

JW Anderson explored the ethereal side of his Loewe woman for Spring 2020, alluding to patrician elegance. Loewe's craft and construction is always at the focal-point of Anderson's collection, yet he creates pieces that real women want to wear. This season his nomadic woman gets in touch with a softer, romantic side, by way of guipure, chantily and marguerite lace in the form of sheer dresses with rectangular pannier skirts, a tunic and coordinating pants, as well as a babydoll gown.


Isabel Marant

Isabel Marant is bringing booty shorts back. For Spring 2020, the French designer looked to a colorful mix of ultra teeny, ultra short shorts, styled with a myriad of strong-shouldered jackets. The colors were bright—with a mix of stripes, florals, and muted tie-dye prints thrown in, too. But the key takeaway was an overarching ode to the no pants look. Whether done in booty shorts or ultra mini skirts, it seems like the early 2000s are itching their way back once again.


Off-White

Virgil Abloh had to sit out his latest Off-White runway show due to health reasons, but his creative vision made him feel like he was there in spirit this season. Titled ‘Meteor Shower,’ the collection was quite literally inspired by just that—as evidenced by the large holes left in leather pants, tops, blazers, and even the brand’s newest bag. According to show notes, the cosmic theme was meant "to illustrate a woman’s power, to show that her spirit is indestructible by natural forces.”

Abloh’s signature streetwear pieces were still there (albeit with a few extra holes), but it was the hoop-embellished necklines, buttery leather separates, and colorful gowns (including a hot pink finale number worn by Bella Hadid) that stood out most.


Chloe

Is there anyone fashion people love to reference more than the illusive boho Parisian girl? She's been on hiatus with the onset of streetwear and '80s power shoulders, but designer Natacha Ramsay-Levi brought her back today. The designer called the collection, "An essential manifesto for the Chloé woman: a fundamental vision of femininity anchored in reality." She wears suits with interesting, sexy tops underneath, floral bustiers, floral dresses with cool leather belts. Face it, she's cool, but she's not afraid to be feminine too.


Maison Margiela

Galliano is going back, way back—think two world wars ago—to garner inspiration for Spring 2020. There are references to Red Cross nurses, army jackets, his own take on camo, sailors and soldiers of the fashion kind. Is it a reminder of the worst times for men? A warning of where we could be headed? We can't be sure, but we do know the tailoring is done wonderfully.


Rochas

Alessandro Dell’Acqua is back in the color game after a previous season of all-black looks. That meant explorations of red with burgundy, preppy pink with green, seafoam with black—and a reminder that sometimes an LBD is all a girl needs. Color seemed to be the main through line, though, on a generally haphazard look at a woman's wardrobe for the season.


Lanvin

Lanvin is officially back, spinning their own dreamworld to enchant us, and enchanting it was. As editors huddled under umbrella's for the outdoor show in the rain, models lightened the mood as they made their way down the runway in cheerful prints, yellow checkerboard, and rainbow block prints on clothes that evoked a certain jet set style of the 1950s. Creative Director Bruno Sialelli drew inspiration the Little Nemo in Slumberland comic strip that began in 1905, and his childhood in the South of France, where nothing felt impossible. He noted Lee Radziwill and Babe Paley as inspirations. But it wasn't all about beach time, he also worked in more serious silhouettes like architecturally sculpted suits and accordion pleated tops and matching skirts.


Christian Dior

For Spring, Maria Grazia Chiuri kept it in the family—taking inspiration from the house's founder's sister, Catherine Dior. It's not a great leap, looking at the show, to realize she was an avid gardner and fiercely independent before it was fashionable to be so. Charming floral prints, feathered jackets, and houndstooth mini dresses, paired with little gardening hats, served as a reminder from Chiuri to create our own "inclusive garden" and re-establish a balance between humans and the planet.


Saint Laurent

Anthony Vaccarello is staying within the codes of Rive Gauche and its particular melding of masculine-feminine, making it just a little modern, but also embracing that '70s realness. It may sound like a mouthful, but it's really quite simple—short shorts, high boots, gilded party dresses, Le Smoking tuxes and jumpsuits. It's the things girls want to wear, with some great uses of that well-known logo. Thank god it hasn't been redone in upper case Didot.


Dries van Noten

In a true fashion nerd dream, each seat at today's Dries van Noten show came with a rose with a small label DVN*XCLX. Two design power houses—van Noten and Christian Lacroix—have reportedly been working together on the Spring 2020 collection for the past five months. The results were like a Dries meets Lacroix fever dream—polka dots, cropped jackets, feathers, more feathers, bold shoulders, prints, color, black and white. There's a lot to unpack here, but the collection is exuberant, it's maximalist yet polished, it's joyful—and we can all use a little bit of that right now.


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All of the Best Runway Looks from Milan Fashion Week Spring 2020
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Tod's

When one thinks about Italian fashion and what it represents, craftsmanship above all else comes to mind, followed by heritage, leather, and sex appeal. Tod's offers the top three in droves, and is expected to deliver quality basics made in top-notch fabrics one knows will last a lifetime and end up in the closet of future generations.

That pressure to deliver heirloom-quality products sometimes leaves drama and ostentatiousness to other labels, and this season didn't go out of its way to break the mold. Standouts included the opening bomber and palazzo shorts ensemble paired with the brand's signature loafers (pictured here), a waist bag shown on an almost-'80s chocolate short suit, and a zebra trench coat, which seemed to be the show's biggest departure from the classics—but would easily complement a wardrobe of them. —Carrie Goldberg


Etro

This was a collection designed for Penny Lane, and all girls of her ilk. Etro's owned the festival girl for ages, but this was an even more direct take on pieces Veronica Etro knows they'll love. Our favorite pieces in this sea of modern bohemia, however, were the unexpected insertions of suiting and stiffer fabrics, like the mini velvet coat dress Bella Hadid showcased for the finale, before a sea of women in men's shirting and denim walked the runway as a group for the show's epic sendoff. It seemed, like the suiting, this was another through-line of Etro's Spring 2020 season: the merging of menswear with the brand's staple bohemian womenswear.

Amidst blouson sleeves, peasant frocks, and artfully knitted coats came some sharpness—with a soft side; these suits and riffs on button-front shirts didn't feel out of place. It appears that Penny Lane can have multiple sides of her personality, as most women do. She's the light of the tour bus, the boardroom, and all the streets she saunters down in between. —Carrie Goldberg



Fendi

Fendi brought on the prints and the It models to wear them for Spring 2020. Silvia Venturini Fendi managed to seamlessly fuse a moody ‘70s color palette featuring plaids and browns, bright psychedelic patterns, and ultra feminine quilted skirt suits together into one collection that felt both cohesive and cool. Sure there were runway appearances by Gigi, Bella, and Kaia, but the buzzy models didn’t overshadow the clothes here. Instead, playful skirt suits, short and sweater pairings, and sheer dresses with checked co-ords underneath stood out. It managed to capture the ‘60s and ‘70s spirit without veering into territory that felt too literal or campy. More excitingly, there was also a return of ultra oversized sunglasses, much to the chagrin of many of us who’ve struggled with the teeny tiny Matrix sunglass trend of seasons past. —Lauren Alexis Fisher


Bottega Veneta

At an all-time high of “New Bottega” fever on Instagram, the street style scene, and editorials, Daniel Lee had a lot to live up to for his second collection at Bottega Veneta. For spring, there were new iterations of the current puffy leather sandals that have flooded all our Instagram feeds, along with new quilted leather bags to match. But the creative director focused on honing in on the brand’s knits and buttery leather pieces—which ended up ultimately defining this collection. The cutout sweater dresses, leather Bermuda shorts, and outerwear were minimal, yet strong—proving Lee’s “less is more” vision has staying power for the modern woman. Throughout the predominantly neutral looks, pops of bright orange and pale baby blue stood out for a subtle ‘70s color palette. But again, it was less about the colors or the It accessories and more about the minimal silhouettes and cuts, all of which hit at just the right places. —Lauren Alexis Fisher


Max Mara

Three’s a trend and Max Mara created its own this season with side-by-side model walks down the runway. The inspiration was Killing Eve’s Villanelle, which if you don’t watch the show, is basically assassin thriller, but make it fashion. Capturing Jodie Comer’s chilling character, the beauty this season featured childlike double braids paired with a striking black lipstick. As for the clothes, there was a mix of utilitarian suiting, spy-esque jackets, and pastel evening wear paired with newsboy caps ideal for sleuthing. For the Max Mara woman, it was a fresh delve into workwear (hello Bermuda short suits) and slinky dresses for a night out. —Lauren Alexis Fisher


Prada

Prada's show notes point to a return to simplicity for Spring, "Reduction to an essence," it reads, "An antidote to complexity," it continues. If there are elements of a '20s flapper, or a '70s sophisticate, or '90s minimalist, it's incidental. This is a woman for right now, a modernist through and through. She wears a great jacket, a tiered, gauzy white dress, a leather skirt suit, a languid silk dress with embroidery—she knows who she is, and she likes to look smart. —Kerry Pieri


Alberta Ferretti

While Alberta Ferretti isn't always thought of first as a sustainable designer, she has been lauded with Ethical and Sustainable Awards. It's that kind of covert dedication to responsible practices the industry needs. Spring for the designer is about pieces that stand the rest of time, playful, boho-tinged mini skirts, trouser suits, and jumpsuits that refuse to look dated, and are always ready for a good vacation. —Kerry Pieri


Jil Sander

Clean, utterly un-fussy, simple, streamlined. Find your favorite synonym, but Jil Sander's Luke and Lucie Meier are not here for nonsense. Which isn't to say their Spring collection lacks interest. Subtle details like a lace like edging on a decidedly sexy wrap skirt, fringe on a floor-length white dress, exaggerated shoulders on an oxblood two-piece, add up to the sort of cool clothes women don't know they're yearning for until they see it. —Kerry Pieri


Versace

What's old is new again—but Donatella Versace proved with her Spring 2020 collection that she has no plans of veering away from fashion's forefront, while still staking claim on the brand's accomplishments of the past. The show began by hearkening back to basics: killer coats, sexy suiting, and sultry (as expected) takes on officewear and outerwear, all strutting through a scene where prints where projected on the walls, hinting at what was to come.

Then came the jungle prints, printed via a Google-provided technology on beaded cocktail looks, coats, pants, and more, with fluorescent options of the same ilk breaking them up in between. The jungle print was hard not to recognize. We so rarely think about the world before Instagram, and Versace's show asked us to take ourselves back, to the late '90s, when red carpets were paramount to street style and social media. One gown, above all, changed that game (and red carpet coverage) as we know it—Jennifer Lopez's jungle-printed Versace gown for the 2000 Grammy Awards. The gown was part of the inspiration behind Google Images, given the world's voracious desire to see it up-close, and Donatella's play with projections and smart printing acknowledged the brand's inspiration on modern technology with an ode to the past.

And then came the showstopper: The new, even more revealing (if you can imagine), version of the iconic jungle-print gown made its appearance—on J.Lo—as the show's finale, finally giving the gown the Instagram moment it deserved. —Carrie Goldberg

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The Best of London Fashion Week, in Pictures
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Victoria Beckham

“What excites me about this collection is the strange mix of colors, which is something we touched on last season but has now really become part of the DNA of Victoria Beckham,” said the designer after her show at the Italianate 19th-century Foreign and Commonwealth Office in London. The ’70s-inspired collection of wide-lapeled tailoring and ruffled silk dresses came in a palette of neutrals with the occasional high-voltage kick of a vivid jewel tone: deep purple, emerald green, turquoise, citrine. “There is a strangeness that really works,” she added. “All the neutrals together look a bit wrong — but that’s actually what makes it right.”


 
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Marques Almeida

Returned to London Fashion Week with a show at the Old Truman Brewery in East London, not far from where Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida first started their brand. If a sense of grandeur could be felt in the collection’s satin puffball skirts, brocade suits and feather-trimmed silk pajamas, it was only heightened by the collage of video clips from Alfred Hitchcock movies and snippets of Old Hollywood stars such as Marilyn Monroe that played in the background. But the tougher side that the label is known for was still in evidence, seen in motorcycle leathers and frayed denim, which the designers said will be produced ethically and sustainably with closed-water systems.


 
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Molly Goddard

Known for her frothy mille-feuille-like tulle creations, Molly Goddard confidently took her designs in a new direction in her latest show, held in an Art Deco recreation center. Her smocked dresses were more streamlined than usual, and the designer experimented with denim for the first time — albeit on dresses embellished with three-dimensional flowers. Many of the pieces, including knitwear, came strewn with velvet ribbons. The British model Edie Campbell closed the show in a new rendition of the designer’s signature: a pink cotton tiered dress with a ruched bodice and an open back.


 
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Michael Halpern

Michael Halpern’s show started with sequins and ended with even bigger ones. The New York-born designer has established his fledgling business with a shimmering disco-ball look that has a distinctly nocturnal spirit. This season, he devoted his show to Barbra Streisand and her seminal role as Fanny Brice in “Funny Girl” (1968). There were gold flares and voluminous opera jackets, sweeping capes and an array of gowns and cocktail dresses that glittered with sequins and crystals — not unlike the antique chandeliers that formed the backdrop for the show.


 
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Matty Bovan

One of London’s most beloved young talents, has become known for his wild and whimsical shows. For his latest, the designer introduced a series of more approachable styles, such as leg-of-mutton blouses, paneled combat pants, neat military jackets and bombers. That didn’t stop him from pushing the boundaries in other areas, though. If anything, his forays into more wearable clothes seemed to encourage an altogether more abstract proposition later in the collection, which included panniered gowns with neon laced corsetry, wide mantuas and oversized sculptural pieces draped in vivid Edwardian prints.


 
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Simone Rocha

Took inspiration from the Irish tradition of Wren Day — a festival with origins in Celtic myth in which a fake wren is hunted on December 26 — for her latest show, held in a dilapidated theater in Alexandra Palace, the 19th-century entertainment venue in North London. According to the custom, on the day after Christmas, boys dress in straw costumes and process through their neighborhood, singing songs door-to-door — “sort of like trick-or-treating,” explained Rocha. Hence, raffia was intricately woven with pearls into cross-body bags, worn over voluminous lace-trimmed smock dresses and embroidered white shirts. Elsewhere, dramatic evening wear had exaggerated dropped waists and antique furniture prints, further adding to the show’s emotional depth.

For Spring-Summer 2020, Simone Rocha staged her most dramatic show to date in a restored Victorian theater which, until recently, had been closed to the public for 80 years.Source: CNN


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