ALICE NEWBOLD

For some, the summer of 2022 represented a passport to freedom. “Goodbye trousers, hello nose ring!” seems to have been Katie Holmes’s thought process. Others have made it their mission to raise up brands that stand for something (Telfar’s stocks are up thanks to Beyoncé, whose Birkins are in storage), or rewear past looks as part of a shift towards a greener industry outlook (Alessandra Rich polka dots are officially the Duchess of Cambridge’s uniform).

When the stars have finally moored their mega-yachts in Saint-Tropez, and the Love Island couples have split up, this will be remembered as the season of Jennifer Lopez’s grand tour – sorry, honeymoon. All beaming smiles and Birkins, J Lo has been on a hyper-glamorous charm offensive, packing more designer handbags and Hustlers-esque platforms than any pop star performing across the globe (look away, Dua and Harry!).

From Hollywood heavyweight Lopez to Brad Pitt, who firmly threw his hat in the ring for the title of this season’s most stylish with the help of some great linen, here’s Vogue’s special commendations for those dedicated dressers who turn up and turn out major looks, even when everyone else has mentally put their #OOO on.

The Stealth Glasto Goer

Tracee Ellis Ross is one of Instagram’s most dedicated fashion chroniclers, but her stint at Glastonbury almost slipped under the radar. Post-festival, she shared a video montage of her negotiating Worthy Farm’s fields wearing a double backpack (Prada on the front, Gucci behind), and a Diana Ross band tee. “I don’t understand why anyone would choose this,” said the bemused Black-ish actor. “But, I will do it for my family.” While her mother aced the Legends slot, Tracee stole our hearts as a first-time festival legend in her own right. 

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The London Look 

Every once in a while Kylie Jenner flexes her fashion muscle and stakes her claim as the most trend-conscious Kardashian sister. Usually this happens at Amangiri, but, this summer, Kylie swapped Canyon Point for Claridge’s, as she showed London what her archive is made of. From rare Comme to ’90s motocross Mugler, she levelled up tourist style with a string of customised vintage and status Hermès bags. No one beats a Kardashian-Jenner when it comes to image curation.

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The Saint-Tropez Slip Dress Queen

Headlines from the Beckhams’ annual yacht extravaganza around Europe incorporated vodka, karaoke and Gigi Hadid, but not enough was said about Victoria’s chic holiday wardrobe. The designer ticked all the timeless summer dress boxes, from slips to LBDs, and elevated them with gold jewellery (the best to accentuate a tan), and the odd Bottega. The family’s boat might have been called The Madsummer, but VB looked nothing but classic at sea.

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The World’s Most Dedicated Honeymooner

No matter about Ben’s bemused frown and never-ending roster of blue shirts, his new wife, Mrs Affleck, had the media gripped with every affordable Reformation dress and fairytale Gucci gown worn in Paris and Capri. “No one does what she does. Or how she does it,” said her stylists Rob Zangardi and Mariel Haenn. Her suitcase was curated with the same precision as a red-carpet tour – nobody honeymoons like Jennifer Lopez.

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The Best-Dressed Wedding Guest

Alexa Chung will always be the most stylish guest at any given nuptials, but this summer, she’s had a particularly good run of shocking purple, black velvet and floral brocade embellished dresses. Even better than her accessories (Carrie Bradshaw would surely weep at those heavenly blue Manolos)? The pictures that prove she’s the life and soul of a reception, too. 

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The Bermuda Shorts Champion

Since stepping down as a senior member of The Firm in January 2020, we’ve seen the Duchess of Sussex in three modes: Santa Barbara mom, Hollywood businesswoman, and exiled royal on a mission to tell her side of the story. Then came the Bermuda shorts. This summer’s uniform of chic tailoring, worn to lunch with Gloria Steinem and at the Santa Barbara polo, have signified a woman at ease and in charge of her narrative. Those can-do cut-offs spoke volumes. 

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The Sci-Fi Style Plate

Tessa Thompson has had some stop-you-in-your-tracks good fashion moments this summer. By day, she’s in surrealist Schiaparelli and conceptual MM6 Maison Margiela. Come nighttime, she’s all liquid silver deconstructed Armani Privé gowns, other-worldly Interior NYC dresses and artsy Puppets & Puppets pieces that make her walk a little taller. Hers are happy-making clothes and, to quote one Vogue staffer: “They’re restoring my faith in fashion.”

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The Skirt Flirt 

Cantaloupe-orange suiting and chocolate-brown linen skirts became Brad Pitt’s USP on the Bullet Train tour, and his breezy red-carpet attire received more than a few nods of approval from industry insiders. The actor’s involvement with luxury shirt brand God’s True Cashmere is clearly paying dividends, and with a penchant for The Elder Statesman and Rick Owens, his style is leaning away from LA Dad to Cali creative with a point of difference.

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The World’s Coolest Mum

Rihanna changed the maternity wear game this year and, naturally, she’s proved she’s the most fashion-forward mother since giving birth to her son. The Fenty mogul was first out the gate with Balenciaga’s instantly cult collab with Adidas, and has been fuelling a healthy Martine Rose habit. No one does sports chic quite like Rih. Stat.

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The (Balenciaga) Chameleon

Who runs the world? Kim! It’s been Kardashian’s summer, thanks to her Balenciaga switch up from skin-tight pantaboots to baggy track pants (big news for a ’chiaga girl), and a hair transformation that posed the question: do bobs have more fun? While the world was captivated by her whirlwind romance with Pete Davidson, we’re more excited to see what the next fashion chapter holds for boss bitch Kim.

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The Tailoring Mood-Setter

Sunnies on, suits pressed has been the mood of Daniel Kaluuya’s Nope press tour wardrobe. It’s been a total joy to watch the actor power stance his way through red-carpet appearances in Dior by Kim Jones and Armani, before taking on junkets in Martine Rose. His partnership with the stylist Jason Rembert is a great example of when fashion collaborations just work.

Take inspiration from these interior designers and discover how to make a home look expensive

There are plenty of ways to make a home look expensive without the high price tag. The secret to achieving an expensive look for your home isn't actually rooted in the amount you spend. In fact, when it comes to making a home look expensive, less is often more. 

Why make a home look expensive? It's obviously wonderful to live in a home that feels well-curated, but it's also a great way to increase your home's value if you are thinking of selling up any time soon.

Whether you are looking for luxury living room ideas or luxury bathroom ideas and beyond, these expert interior design tips will help you achieve an expensive aesthetic in every room of your home.

WHAT MAKES A HOME LOOK EXPENSIVE?

Making a home look expensive primarily comes down to the materials you use and how you dress your space. Every interior design project should begin with a declutter – there are plenty of decluttering tips to help you. Decluttering your home will ensure that you are starting with a clean slate – after-all, clutter definitely doesn't say 'expensive'. It is also important to avoid anything that makes your house look cheap.

 From here you can redesign your space with these high-end ideas in mind. 

1. PICK FURNITURE WITH CHARACTER

Gone are the days of a matching suite of furniture being a marker of great interior design. Today, it's all about texture, interest and character. Decorating with antiques, especially wooden pieces, is a great way to make a house look expensive. You can mix antique and newer finds to curate a space that is truly unique to you.

'When decorating with wood, resist the urge to pick furniture in the same species or tone as this can sometimes make a room feel flat. Instead opt for pieces with slight color variation for a more sophisticated and polished look,' advises Rob Ellis, head of design at Dwell

2. ADD CHARACTER AND TEXTURE WITH PANELING

Originally used in period homes as a method of insulation, today wall paneling ideas are loved for the way they elevate a room – giving the scheme a sense of gravitas that instantly screams 'expensive'. 

There are ideas available for paneling any room of your home, from living room paneling ideas through to bathroom paneling ideas. Plus, it's a surprisingly cost-effective way to decorate, often more affordable than wallpaper.

While wall paneling is by far the more traditional option, why not consider ceiling paneling? One of our favorite ceiling ideas, it adds architectural interest to what can be an overlooked part of your interior design and will also emphasize the height of the space, another technique that makes a home look expensive.

3. INSTALL STATEMENT LIGHTING

No expensive-looking interior is complete without a chandelier, which, in itself, needn't be costly (you can even buy affordable chandeliers on Amazon

One of our favorite ways to make a living room look expensive, a bold pendant light will also draw the eye upwards, emphasizing the height of the room which in turn makes the space feel bigger and brighter. 

'Statement chandeliers are the jewellery of an interior,’ says Owen Pacey, founder of Renaissance London

4. GIVE YOUR STAIRCASE AN UPDATE

Updating your staircase might seem like an unusual way to make a house look expensive, but new staircase ideas, whether a new or refinished banister or balustrade or smartly painted risers, can transform the way in which people perceive your home. 

'A staircase is an integral part to the structure of any home and is the first thing that yourself and guests see when walking inside, so guaranteeing your entryway is impactful is key. A bespoke staircase is the perfect way to transform a space into something that was once ‘tired’ into somewhere that is stylish and welcoming,' says Gareth Betts, Neville Johnson

Even if you don't go for a total change, there are many ways to decorate a staircase that are sure to give your existing flight a new lease of life. Consider ripping up staircase carpets that are worn and replacing them with elegant wood flooring ideas or even wood-look flooring. You can then dress these with pretty stair runner ideas that will help with grip as well as adding aesthetic value. 

5. DISPLAY CUT FLOWERS

'It may seem obvious, but having fresh flowers on the counter is an instant color burst adding endless decorative value,' advises Kristina Phillips

Decorating with flowers is a quick and effective way to make a house look expensive. Not only do fresh flowers bring color and texture to a room but they also bring a sense of life and some even imbue the room with their beautiful fragrance. 

'Eucalyptus is a favorite among florists for creating fragrant and luxury displays perfect for high-end interiors. Paired with a simple glass vase and beautifully interspersed among fresh flowers such as lilies, carnations, roses and thistles, the stunning shapes of the eucalyptus stems will add height and dimension to any room and add a look of opulence for a more expensive interior,' says Dani Turner, customer experience director at Bunches

Why not go a step further by planning a cut flower garden so you can harvest fresh blooms from your own flower beds? 'This is a much more sustainable way of growing flowers for arranging in your home and avoids buying ones that have been flown halfway across the world,' explains Amelia Bouquet who trained in garden design at the English Gardening School

6. INVEST IN ART YOU LOVE

Decorating with art can seem like a daunting prospect, from choosing the right colors and textures to size, shape and position. Thankfully, there is lots of advice to help you choose art for your home and plenty of gallery wall ideas that are sure to inspire.

'Bare walls will make a space feel empty and lacking, but enormous prints of a cityscape are certainly not the way to go. Taking time to invest in pieces you genuinely like, that also fit your space will make a huge difference to the overall look and feel of any room, and help to craft something that feels authentic and meaningful. Don't rush this process or put pressure on yourself to have all your art within six months. Building your collection is all part of the fun,' says Sam Greig, senior designer at Swoon

7. REPLACE CARPETS WITH WOOD FLOORING

Timelessly beautiful, wooden flooring is a highly desirable feature. Loved for its authentic, natural appearance, durability and warmth underfoot, it will add an expensive look to any room in which it is installed. 

'Flooring is the key element when it comes to setting the tone for any interior. Get this right and all the other details will fall into place,' says Darwyn Ker, Managing Director of Woodpecker Flooring

There are lots of options from which to choose. Ageing gracefully, natural wood flooring reveals a characterful differentiation of shades between each board – try these wood floor ideas for a bedroom. 

A reclaimed wood floor is imbued with history and character which is nearly impossible for newer boards to emulate, however it is poorly suited to a kitchen as there are more durable kitchen flooring ideas from which to choose. If you love the look of wood but want something a little more budget friendly, luxury laminate wood-style flooring will achieve a similar finish at a fraction of the price.

'Lighter boards create an element of freshness all year round and while they might not offer the same drama as their darker counterparts, they still add wonderful character to the home. They are ideal for those who prefer to walk on the fresher, brighter side of interiors,' adds Darwyn.

8. INCORPORATE LUXURY MATERIALS

You don't have to go all out when adding luxury materials to your home. Yes, a marble bathroom will look stunning and definitely give off expensive vibes, however, it is not the only way. 

First, consider saving in certain areas that don't matter as much to you – perhaps you go for engineered wood flooring over real wood or you opt for a more affordable paint brand – so that you have the budget to invest in the items that really matter to you – maybe a marble sink for your kitchen or grand fireplace for your living room.

You can also accessorize with pieces made from luxury materials, such as a marble tray on a coffee table or a gold candle snuffer; this will help to make your house more look expensive without breaking the bank. 

9. KEEP WIRES OUT OF VIEW

We live in a technological world and it is likely that there will be wires in every room of your home, from the TV in the living room, appliances in the kitchen to chargers in the bedroom. However, even the most elegant room will be brought down by a tangle of stray cables. In order to achieve an expensive looking home, it is essential that this source of visual clutter is reduced as much as possible.

If you have a wall mounted television or are thinking about TV wall ideas, consider running the cables through the wall to achieve a seamless look. Then hide peripheral devices in sideboards or adjoining cabinetry to continue to wire-free aesthetic. 

For device chargers, consider an all-in-one wireless option. The single cable can tuck behind sideboards or bedside tables and the dock will provide an easy, minimalist way to charge all your devices without all the cables.

In the kitchen, the easiest way is to keep appliances out of sight. Store toasters, blenders and other occasional gadgets in a cupboard or pantry until needed. This will not only reduce the wires but will also keep your kitchen countertops clear.

10. ADD A VINTAGE RUG

'Luxurious rugs can make a home look and feel more expensive. Choose options that are durable and stain-resistant,' says Jessica Nelson of Jessica Nelson Design

'Rug pads also make a big difference in the design. We usually opt for thicker felt options over the thinner webbed versions. There are some great expensive options out there, but we also love vintage rugs we find on Etsy as a more budget-friendly option,' adds Jessica.   

Once you've chosen the perfect design – there are plenty of bedroom rug ideas or living room rug ideas that are sure to inspire – it is also important that you know how to clean an area rug in order to keep it looking its best. 

11. DON'T OVERLOOK THE DETAILS

Finishing touches are a great way to make your home look expensive. Think door handles, drawer pulls, light switches and sockets. These elements are often overlooked but the right design can pull an entire scheme together.

‘Light switches are the most interactive part of your interior and should be an integral part of the design,’ says Howard Solomons, head of design
at Wandsworth Electrical

While outlets and switches are small details, this is not a place to skimp – opt for the best you can afford. Create a harmonious look by ensuring that door handles and the pulls on drawers and cupboards are in the same material and finish as your sockets and switches.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR HOUSE LOOK EXPENSIVE ON A BUDGET?

One of the best ways that you can make your house look expensive on a budget is with your decor. Whether it's vases of flowers, artwork or window treatment ideas, all of these elements can help to make your look more expensive.

'While many of us have been spending so much time at home, it seems like every day we're finding something that we want to change in our space. If you're working with a minimal budget, updating your window treatments can play an integral role in a refresh without going overboard. Think of your window treatments as a canvas for the rest of your space,' says designer Mariko Blakemore of Stoneside Blinds & Shades

HOW DO YOU MAKE YOUR HOUSE LOOK LIKE IT'S WORTH MORE?

One of the easiest ways to make your house look like it's worth more is by repainting. 'To give a room life and look more expensive, go with the power of paint. A fresh coat of paint in an eye-catching color – either bold or moody – can make all the difference,' says Mary Patton of Mary Patton Design

Also insure that your home's design is cohesive. 'A home executed with a master plan, where each space ties into the next, elevates the feeling of a home. Colors, textures and furnishings need to be well thought out for each space in how they relate to each other and add to the overall experience. Tasteful application of color and placing of textures creates an atmosphere that hints at luxury. Furnishings should be both functional and beautiful; one should be able to indulge in comfortable yet visually interesting pieces. Pairing luxury and comfort make the home feel expensive,' says Laurie Davis from Eralyn Interiors

WORDS BY GREGK FOLEY

Our roaming cultural lens is always on the lookout for the best talent coming from every location. From Japan to Sweden, be sure to check out the designers you need to know from around the world. Italy's importance in the history of fashion truly cannot be understated. You would have to have lived under a rock your entire life not to be even vaguely familiar with the broad lineage of Italian brands, designers, fashion houses, and high-end labels that have each contributed to the shape of style today.

What’s more, the story goes beyond the Italian fashion brands themselves. Even in the 21st century, Italian manufacturing continues to be revered as some of the highest quality in the world, with countless family-owned businesses producing garments for high-end clothing brands including Chanel, Ralph Lauren, Paul Smith, and a long list of others. Put simply, fashion runs in Italian blood.

That said, the sheer scope of Italian fashion, combined with the mythology surrounding many of its most famous players, has created a world that often feels impossible to grasp from the outside. Perhaps you know the names, but not their stories. Or maybe you’re familiar with iconic designs but don’t know where they fit in the bigger picture.

Whatever your level of knowledge, there are probably dozens of elements to your style of dress that lead, one way or another, back to the Italian fashion houses.

With that in mind, here’s a comprehensive guide to the essential Italian designer brands and how each of them made their name.

Keep scrolling to see the best Italian clothing brands in 2022.

Stone Island

When many of us think of Italian high-end brands, we imagine luxurious silks, wools, leathers, and furs — quintessential Italian opulence. It’s precisely this association that makes Carlo Rivetti’s Stone Island such a fascinating anomaly.

Stone Island was shaped for many years by Massimo Osti, one of the most under-celebrated figures in contemporary menswear design. Osti’s creative process is truly unparalleled, and his approach to fabric has been described as less tailoring than “creating a recipe.” Unique textile blends, pioneering experimentations in production, and truly left-field thinking has seen Stone Island produce some of the most fascinating clothing ever seen, including jackets that change color according to the temperature, “self-healing” fabrics, and cotton fabric bonded to stainless steel.

Stone Island was launched in 1982, but its roots can be traced back more than a century in the Rivetti family which has been involved in clothing manufacture since the mid 19th century. Since its founding, the label has pushed the envelope in terms of form, fashion, and functionality. Again, the era’s football casuals were fond of Stone Island’s stunning, immaculately designed, hyper-technical gear, which kept them warm on the terraces and dry on the walk back to the railway station.

Recent years have seen Stone Island expand into the US and claim its hard-earned streetwear kudos through collaborations with Supreme and Nike, reaffirming that Stone Island's significance in terms of groundbreaking fashion design cannot be overstated.

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Marni

Marni, founded in 1994 by Consuelo Castiglioni, is a worthy mention despite its relative youth, given its comparatively rapid rise to success.

The brand started out using the family’s fur business as an avenue to experiment with fur and textiles, but now creates full collections, including ready-to-wear, luggage, jewelry, and accessories. Most noteworthy are the brand’s footwear designs, which blend timeless shoe styles with a unique flair.

Few luxury clothing brands have created a sneaker as compelling as the aptly named Marni’s Sneaker (even if it does borrow pretty heavily from a certain adidas EQT silhouette). However, the absolute king has to be the kilted derby shoes, which, depending on how they’re styled, can form part of any look, from classic to cute.

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Palm Angels

Although the emerging Italian brand is still in its infancy, Palm Angels is quickly turning heads. Originally a photography project for Francesco Ragazzi (better known for his work as the art director of Moncler), the label takes inspiration from the skateboarders of Venice and Manhattan Beaches in LA, after which the project is named.

Earlier collections left a lot to be desired, but the brand has developed quickly and successfully channeled stylistic elements similar to those of its contemporaries, including extended cuts, camouflage patterns, and a fearless blend of streetwear, high fashion, and contemporary style.

Part-grunge, part-catwalk, part-Dogtown — the label has laid itself out as one to watch in the years ahead.

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Bottega Veneta

hly to "Venetian Workshop" or "Venetian Atelier," Bottega Veneta is a luxury Italian brand founded in 1966 by Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro, specializing in premium leather goods and accessories.

Although the label now produces entire clothing collections for both men and women, it is undoubtedly best known for its "intrecciato" leather, an intricate, hand-woven technique that cross-hatches leather or suede to create a textured checkerboard pattern.

Faced with falling sales toward the end of the 20th century, the brand actually experimented with different forms of branding, including a large "BV" insignia, but its distinctive intrecciato has proven to be its greatest trademark and is now the sole external indicator of the Bottega Veneta brand.

This subtle approach to luxury branding is something that Vogue highlights as an example of “stealth wealth”: covert consumption of luxury without necessarily being showy about it. Regardless, Bottega Veneta is a perfect case study in a practice that has defined many of the world’s most successful high-end clothing brands: finding a unique aesthetic and taking total ownership of it.

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Prada

Prada, like many others, has its roots in luxury leather luggage goods. Founded in 1913 by Mario Prada, the house quickly experienced meteoric success, and in 1919 was confirmed as an official supplier to the Italian royal household. This was signified by the iconic knotted rope that frames the label’s logo.

Prada entered a new phase throughout the ’70s when Mario Prada’s granddaughter Miuccia inherited the label, injecting new energy and a modern perspective into the brand (as is often the case with historic houses). Over the next four decades, Prada cemented its brand as a symbol of timeless, effortless chic, embodied by understated branding and minimalist designs.

One of the label’s signature motifs is its use of Saffiano leather, a textured leather printed with a cross-hatch pattern that is both hard-wearing and visually appealing. As for clothing designs, Prada has shown an eccentric flair in recent years, creating collections that ooze with color, patterns, and flashy designs. However, this eccentricity is always tempered by a certain class that keeps everything in order.

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Missoni

The master of Italian knitwear, Missoni is a truly iconic Italian brand that possesses a very particular aesthetic. Long story short, Missoni is the proud master of the zigzag and its vibrant, multicolored scarves are a true wardrobe essential for any fan of classic style.

The Italian brand is known for its intricate, beautiful knits that flow across the entire color spectrum and yet somehow still look extremely tasteful. The brand was founded in 1953 as a family business and remains so to this day.

Versace might know how to knock you to the floor with color and glamor, but Missoni uses those same ingredients to make truly visually arresting pieces. If you’re the kind of person to walk through a store rubbing each fabric between your fingers and thumb, examining each weave, avoid wandering into the Missoni section — you might never leave.

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Moncler

I know what you’re thinking: Moncler is French, right? This is true: the brand’s name is an abbreviation of a village near Grenoble, Monestier-de-Clermont, and it’s difficult to think of Moncler without imagining well-heeled French families skiing in the Alps.

However, Moncler was bought out in 2003 by Remo Ruffini, and it was Ruffini who really pushed Moncler from high-end outdoor brand to an iconic symbol of the great outdoors.

As such, you can’t really talk about the revered French master of the quilted jacket, Moncler, without also talking about the distinctly Italian flare that brought Moncler to collaborations with Thom Browne, OFF-WHITE, Pharrell Williams, and FriendsWithYou.

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Versace

If Valentino is ostentatious and Dolce & Gabbana is glamorous, then the house of Versace can only be described — in the best way possible — as brash and audacious.

Founded in 1978 by Gianni Versace, the Italian brand encapsulates everything we have come to imagine about luxury. This is a brand that looks expensive, feels expensive, and is — you guessed it! — expensive. Versace is known for its bright colors, bold patterns, and vibrant graphics. Even the use of Medusa in the brand’s logo draws on the Greek mythological character and her ability to completely consume whoever looked at her.

After Gianni Versace’s murder in 1997, Donatella Versace took over as the label’s creative director and has come to embody everything about the brand with her own larger-than-life style. The brand has continued to thrive in recent years, and, thanks to its ethos of wealth and hedonism, has become one of the most mentioned luxury clothing brands in rap lyrics, Migos or otherwise.

It’s also worth noting that Versace is one of very few high-end brands that remains majority-owned by its founding family. Fashion has always been full of drama, but the House of Versace truly is a dynasty.

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Moschino

Before we go any further, let’s get one thing straight: it's pronounced "mos-KEY-no." Founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino, the Italian brand has been one of the biggest influences on contemporary fashion as we know it.

Deviating from the typically insular and hierarchical notion of high fashion that so many of us have in our heads, Moschino embraced popular culture and everyday iconography in a way that nobody had thought to do before. Pop art, cultural ephemera, corporate branding, comic books, and cuddly toys were all rich sources of inspiration for the Moschino brand.

The label was notably shouted out alongside a number of other brands by Notorious B.I.G. in "Hypnotize," and in the late ’90s, its all-over print jeans, flashy graphics, and big logos became mainstays of the UK club scene (alongside the equally glamorous Gucci and Versace), cementing a strange connection between high-fashion Italian brands and street-level culture that has granted Moschino an enduring essence of authenticity.

In 2013, the equally quirky designer Jeremy Scott took over as the brand’s creative director, bringing his own next-level take on contemporary culture to a revered Italian fashion house. Love him or hate him, it’s pretty much a match made in heaven.

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Gucci

Founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci, the label is one of the oldest Italian clothing brands going. Gucci founded his luggage label after being inspired by the luxury lifestyles of people he met while working in the Paris and London hotel trade. Combining this aesthetic with the skilled local craftsmanship of Tuscany, the company quickly became popular with the Italian gentry and international shoppers who would visit his bottega.

Gucci also proved popular with the equestrian community, which inspired the label’s distinctive metal "horse bit" logo. In the decades that followed, the brand’s blend of quintessential luxury and Italian flare made it a mainstay of Hollywood fashion. In 1994, Tom Ford took over as creative director, injecting his own fearless approach into the brand.

In recent years, with Alessandro Michele at the brand’s creative helm, Gucci has reinvigorated its identity even further, embracing its popularity among younger consumers and celebrating an eccentricity rarely seen from a high-fashion institution. With its iconic green and red stripes, G monogram, and whimsical air, there’s just something about Gucci that gives everything a touch more class.

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Valentino

What to say about Valentino Garavani? A one-man fashion powerhouse, the designer studied fashion from an early age, eventually pursuing a formal education in Paris. In 1960, he returned to Rome to open his own fashion house and channeled the grandiose, opulent nature of the Parisian fashion houses into his own distinctly Italian brand.

Valentino made his name with the distinct shade of red he used for most of his dresses, to the point it became known as "Valentino Red." In the 50 years that followed, Valentino built an empire, establishing the Valentino brand as a red carpet staple with countless celebrity fans.

If Italian designer brands have a reputation for being ostentatious, it’s thanks to Valentino Garavani.

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Fendi

The origin of Fendi can be traced back to 1925. Husband and wife Edoardo and Adele Fendi founded the label as a fur and leather goods shop in Rome. Although you might be most familiar with Fendi’s distinctive double-F monogram, it is revered as one of the global authorities on fur and renowned for its pioneering work in the field.

In the ’40s, the next generation of the Fendi family — five sisters Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda — took over and began injecting a new, youthful perspective. In the ’60s, Karl Lagerfeld joined the label and pushed reinvention and experimentation, redefining furs that had fallen out of favor with the brand’s wealthy clientele and bringing a contemporary perspective to the historic brand.

By the '90s, a growing network of family members began to put a strain on the label, and the brand was sold to LVMH. Sadly, Lagerfeld passed away early in 2019, but the brand continues to carry its classic identity of Italian style, empowered by decades of knowledge.

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Giorgio Armani

Surely a label that needs no introduction, the Giorgio Armani name is one that immediately conjures images of razor-sharp black suits, slick leather goods, and the tasteful extravagance that only Italian clothing brands can create.

Armani started his fashion empire in 1975, rooting his design vision in everyday people and the style of the streets. Such an approach has proved popular with fashion fans of all demographics, and now the brand has an extensive roster of diffusion labels, including Emporio Armani, Armani Exchange, EA7, and Armani Jeans.

Like Versace, the Armani empire remains privately owned, which is actually quite poetic; if Versace is an exercise in Italian glamor, then Armani is an exercise in Italian class — toned-down, softly spoken, effortlessly cool, but still making all the necessary statements.

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Miu Miu

Founded in 1993 by Miuccia Prada as an offshoot of Prada, Miu Miu (pronounced "mew-mew") takes its name from Miuccia’s family nickname and is undoubtedly the youthful, exuberant yin to Prada’s timeless, storied yang.

Best known for its ready-to-wear and handbag collections, Miu Miu is never short of color and energy, and has an eccentric disregard for the rules, as is often seen in Japanese fashion. The Italian brand disregards minimal branding and softly spoken lines, embracing chains, sequins, fur, gold, splashes of color, and anything guaranteed to turn heads.

That Miuccia Prada can move effortlessly between two polarized styles is nothing short of incredible, and she is no small part of what makes both of these Italian designer brands so iconic.

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C.P. Company

C.P. Company is another of Massimo Osti's creations; founded in 1971, its appeal lies in many of the same areas as Stone Island. Relying on a constantly evolving roster of ground-breaking fabrics, C.P. Company collections remain in a league reserved for Osti and Osti only.

The brand frequently looks to military design to form the basis of its offering, arguably typified the 'Mile Miglia' jacket which features goggles built into the hood as well as a small lens to the arm pocket to allow for a visible watch face. It's this kind of attention to technical details that sets C.P. Company apart.

Much like Stone Island, C.P. Company's affinity for technical style over clean tailoring has carved a niche out for it both in Italy and in international menswear. In much the same way, though, this unique style lends the label a sense of timelessness; don't expect anyone to steal Osti's crown any time soon.

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Aspesi

Alive and kicking since 1969, Aspesi presents one of the more intriguing contrasts in modern Italian design. While a combination of tradition and modernity epitomizes many of the brands worth watching from Italy, ASpesi takes this cocktail to new highs.

Innovation is at the core of everything that Aspesi puts its name to, whether that’s enlisting the help of Peter Lindbergh to shoot its 1988 Spring/Summer season, or incorporating lightweight insulation into sharply tailored overshirts, Aspesi looks to push to the needle on all fronts.

But while the needle is pushed, the foundations of every Aspesi collection remain largely the same. Muted hues and classic silhouettes are pushed to their limits with new materials and an eye for details into the minutiae.

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Marcelo Burlon

Marcelo Burlon is unquestionably one of the leading names in the new generation of Italian clothing brands, with bold, geometric graphics and slimline contemporary cuts, as demonstrated in his collaborations with celebrities Pusha-T and LeBron James.

Although the Italian brand only produces T-shirts, sweats, and accessories, Burlon has established a distinctive aesthetic that incorporates animals, camouflage, and Patagonian symbols into striking graphic designs.

It could be argued that Burlon’s success in a country known for its historic factories and age-old production techniques highlights fashion’s evolution over the past two decades. It's a world no longer controlled by a few dozen families, opening up instead to anyone with a unique perspective and fresh ideas.

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Barena

Barena designs for life rather than for clothing’s sake. That’s to say that every Barena item has been perfected for daily use. From soft tailoring to track pants, and even softly tailored track pants, the Italian house has forged its own, signature style that looks to shape the way that Italian men and women dress.

Founder Francesca Zara notes that Barena finds its inspiration in the times when Italian workers would work a full day wearing a three-piece suit. This sense of elegance all the time informs the clean-cut yet comfortable character of Barena even today.

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United Standard

United Standard was founded in 2015, producing menswear with strong graphics and highly technical materials. Differing from its competitors, United Standard's website looks like something straight from the ’90s, with purposely misplaced graphics and images that make the webpage look like a Geocities website. Adding to the lo-fi vibe, despite the brand being available at a few select online retailers, United Standard's webstore is just an authenticated eBay store.

The Italian brand's SS18 collection was loaded with technical details and practical sportswear, with some tops sporting QR code prints on the front and motorsport-inspired details on the sleeves. United Standard founder Giorgio Di Salvo is a car lover and has even directed a short movie, The Malware, to represent the brand's mood and inspirations — cars, mystery, and futurism.

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RETROSUPERFUTURE

Founded in Milan in 2007 by Daniel Beckerman, RETROSUPERFUTURE's colorful acetate sunglasses have become increasingly popular over the years. Originally focusing on classic and clean silhouettes, RETROSUPERFUTURE started including more colorful and cutting-edge shapes over time. Silhouettes such as the Flat Top, Ciccio, América, and more feminine models the Lucia and Drew have become staples of each collection.

"All the companies that were in the market were developing boring eyewear," says Beckerman. "I kept looking at all the experimental independent clothing brands and wondered why no one had yet dared to develop a quirky, bold line of eyewear. I wanted to design sunglasses that all my friends would love to wear: fresh, hip, and stylish, without necessarily compromising the quality."

Since its inception, RETROSUPERFUTURE's mission has been to offer high-quality eyewear with recognizable, distinctive designs at an affordable price. And judging by the selection on the brand's website, RETROSUPERFUTURE has been acing it.

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Sunnei

Launched in 2013 by Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, Sunnei is a young Italian brand in every sense. The designs are modern, the cuts are contemporary, and you can see the influence of streetwear and street culture throughout the brand’s collections.

Messina and Rizzo have made no secret of their desire to shake up an Italian fashion landscape dominated by historic houses and cultural dogma, and their oversized fits and tracksuits do exactly that in a country dominated by silks, furs, and luxury fabrics.

The aesthetic is not dissimilar to that of Gosha Rubchinskiy or A-COLD-WALL*, but there’s also a mix of art and culture in every piece that would look at home among the collections of Scandinavian brands such as Soulland or Wood Wood. This isn’t Italian opulence or rustic charm, it’s laid-back cool done very well.

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FILA

The brand was acquired in full by its South Korean subsidiary in 2007, yet FILA is one of the oldest (and largest) Italian sportswear brands, with a rich history to go with it.

For its first few decades, the brand made mountaineering equipment. However, in the ’70s it ventured into the world of tennis and quickly found comfort in what would come to be known as the sportswear industry. Although the brand might have fallen out of favor with the streetwear crowd, FILA’s name in the late ’80s and early ’90s was synonymous with wealth.

Capitalizing on its Italian roots and a then-untapped well of potential in “luxury sportswear,” FILA was arguably one of the first companies to bring high-fashion prices to street-level fashion, and this formula made it a popular choice among rappers, dealers, and all the other usual suspects.

Its subsequent journey from upper echelons to affordable alternative is a fascinating one, and Gary Warnett’s article on the subject is a must-read for streetwear historians.

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Sergio Tacchini

Another classic Italian brand that fell by the wayside, Sergio Tacchini has credible, authentic roots. Started in the late ’60s by the professional tennis player of the same name, the label was an endeavor to shake up tennis' boring dress codes with exciting colors and new materials. As the brand’s distinctively high-fashion logo suggests, the brand brought a touch of class and luxury to sportswear.During the heyday of European football's casuals culture in the ’80s, the Italian brand was highly coveted. As the story goes, football fans who traveled to Europe to support their teams were deemed a cut above the home supporters. When they traveled to Italian cities for a match, they’d shoplift their favorite Italian sportswear from shop owners who were completely unprepared for gangs of 30+ football hooligans fired up for a game.

They say any publicity is good publicity, and if people are risking arrest in a foreign country just to possess your clothes, you must be doing something right. In 2007, the brand declared bankruptcy and was sold to a Hong Kong businessman. Perhaps the brand's more recent collaboration with Gosha Rubchinskiy will open it up to a new generation of consumers, reinvigorating the classic casuals style that made Sergio Tacchini a symbol of Italian sportswear.

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Loro Piana

It's one thing to master a particular style or aesthetic, it’s another to master a textile itself. Like Scotland’s Harrison tweed, John Smedley’s Sea Island cotton, or Horween’s tanned leathers, Loro Piana is the absolute authority on the very finest wools, most famously merino wool and cashmere.

The brand produces an extensive range of its own designs, and they’re just as you’d expect: classic, unfettered, timeless clothing. However, the Italian textile house also supplies its fabrics to many other brands. In the streetwear world, Supreme has made regular use of Loro Piana wool in its more premium releases, while Noah has used the brand’s luxurious, humanely collected baby camel wool to produce the ultimate baller garment: a $600 Loro Piana hooded sweatshirt.

The Loro Piana logo is a seal of quality in itself — there is simply no such thing as a poor-quality Loro Piana garment.

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Kappa

While its mother brand Robe di Kappa was founded in 1916, Kappa, as we know it today, began life in 1967. When we say "Kappa as we know it", we mean Kappa in its legend of sportswear propensity.

With one of the most memorable logos ever — need "Omini" — Kappa made a splash in the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics with the first tracksuit featuring a side-vertical logo stripe. A simple idea now, the logo stripe was unmissable in 1984. Omini decorated the suit from wrist to ankle, and the 222 Banda tracksuit is still considered a game-changer in sportswear.

Since then, Kappa has continued a legacy of retro-fuelled sportswear in the form of footwear and apparel, demarcated by the two figures sitting back to back.

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Diemme

Diemme was founded by Dennis and Maico Signor in 1992 and began life building on the Montebelluna region’s history of boot-making. Originally producing high-quality leather cowboy boots, Diemme is founded on a strong tradition of quality and a focus on materials.

Nowadays Diemme’s offering takes a more style-forward tack rather than the functional pillars on which it was founded. From desert boots to hunting boots and leather sneakers, everything with the embossed Diemme logo is handcrafted by experts in the factory based in Onè di Fonte.

With fashion taking more and more notice of performance styles, Diemme’s high-quality boots have taken on a new life. Expect premium suede combined with rubberized leather and rugged sole units with signature Italian cleanliness.

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Brioni

Like many of Italy’s most famous labels, Brioni began life as a tailoring company. Founded in 1945 by Nazreno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini, the Italian house quickly grew to wold fame, dressing movie stars, CEOs, and politicians alike in its signature bold cuts which felt contemporary as well as classic.

Fine wools and cotton form the unchanging basis to Brioni collections, but the clothing itself has evolved considerably in the label’s 76 years. Classic tailoring has become more relaxed, stepping into the luxury lifestyle arena with a host of polo shirts, deconstructed blazers, and loafers. In this way, Brioni represents the new age of Italian luxury which straddles contemporary styles while also mastering tailoring with a focus on the world’s finest materials.

One of Brioni’s major appeals is its understatement. There are flashes of pattern, but in general, the textures and tailoring do the talking for collections based around muted hues, furthering Brioni’s case as one of Italy’s most timeless houses.

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ROA

Founded in 2015, ROA is very much a product of its environment. The label’s unique luxury-hiking hybrid would have verged on unthinkable before style turned its eye to the world of performance gear. Since 2015, however, ROA has been a central component to the burgeoning scene, and not without reason.

Informed by the latest advances in technical outdoors clothing and footwear, ROA combines considered, lightweight silhouettes with Vibram sole units and a host of high-performance fabrics for a truly inimitable product. The brand’s unprecedented take on outdoor wear is epitomized by the use of style-forward techniques, textures, and materials such as plastic-dipping and fully reflective uppers.

As techwear and hiking trends show no signs of slowing down, ROA is in good stead to leave an indelible mark on the Italian fashion landscape. In years to come, ROA may well be seen as the leader of a new age in Italian footwear.

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Ermenegildo Zegna

Dating back to 1910, Ermenegildo Zegna — often referred to as Zegna — is one of the longest-standing Italian houses in this roundup. It’s in this long life that the reason for Zegna’s supreme reign hides: the luxury house has adapted and evolved at every turn while succeeding in retaining a strong identity in classic sartorial style.

Beginning life as a woolen mill, Ermenegildo Zegna only began to produce its own collections in the 1960s. Still today, Zegna is known for its wildly high-quality wools thanks to expertise honed over more than a century. In 2020, Zegna proved its ability to pivot with a collaborative collection with Jerry Lorenzo’s Fear of God label. Moves like this have introduced Zegna to a new, younger market.

Growth has been the name of the game for Zegna, and its shown us a masterclass in how to grow authentically. Alongside avant-garde styling in partnership with Fear of God, Ermenegildo Zegna has never lost its touch with clean Italian tailoring.

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Diadora

Diadora stands with the giants in the classic sportswear arena. Founded in 1948, the Venetian brand’s first product was a pair of mountain boots, but it soon transitioned to the world of football with the help of Juventus legend Roberto Bettega.

Still characterized by a clear vintage style, Diadora has found its niche in the market. While other sportswear stalwarts compete to release the newest technology, Diadora sticks to heritage styles, appealing to a growing customer base as the sneaker community turns its desires towards more understated, retro styles.

Diadora is, at its core, a distillation of what it means to be an Italian brand. The label doesn’t compete, instead it designs retrospectively and at its own pace. We love it all the more for it.

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Vibram

Far from a fashion label, Vibram (pronounced "Vee-bram") is a manufacturer of rubber. More specifically, highly durable rubber for use in high-intensity performance footwear such as mountaineering and work boots.

Vitale Bramani founded his company in 1935 after the deaths of six friends out climbing, and he’s credited as creating the first rubber “lug” sole, and there’s a certain level of gravitas that comes with being the very first. Much like Loro Piana with wool, a Vibram logo on your sole is a mark of quality. The brand is regularly used by a number of high-end brands, most notably, Hiroki Nakamura’s visvim.

For dads buying a new pair of hiking boots, this Italian brand provides reassurance that the shoes will be up to the task ahead. For style aficionados, it’s a reassurance that a hefty price tag is at least partly justified.

by JASMINE FOX-SULIAMAN

PHOTO: @SHHTEPHS; @GOSIABOY

We're finally approaching fall, arguably the best part of the year. With it comes the prospect of exciting new trends, the ability to layer again, and a newfound motivation to get dressed up. But there's one pitfall to shifting seasons: transitional weather. No matter where you live in the world, there's always a bit of a fight to be had internally about what to wear when it's in that midseason point, especially regarding footwear. Do you embrace wearing boots in the heat and sweat it out? Do you still wear your favorite summer sandals despite being over them? Can you get away with wearing suede shoes in the middle of August? Discerning the best shoes to wear during the transition into fall is not an easy decision.  

But there's no need to fret. Ahead, I've dug through fall/ winter 2022 collections to identify the season's biggest trends. And I've edited it down to the six shoe styles that are not only popular among the fashion set right now but are ideal for transitional weather. Buckle up, babes—you're about to step into fall in style. 

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1. Ballet Flats

On the runway:

PHOTO: COURTESY OF MIU MIU; COURTESY PROENZA SCHOULER

ICYMI, ballet flats have sauntered back into style this past spring and are staying on stage for fall. Need further proof? Look to the F/W 22 collections of luxury houses like Miu Miu, Khaite, and Proenza Schouler that took classic satin and leather ballet flats and gave them a modern take through fresh hues and fun styling. 

On the fashion set:

PHOTO: @ANNELAUREMAIS; @SYMPHONYOFSILK

It's not just the runways that have brought ballet flats back into the fold; so has the fashion set. This shoe trend has quickly glided into every It girl's closet because of its versatility and wearability. Whether you wear them with a white dress on a hot summer day or style them with jeans or a trench coat in early fall, ballet flats—with their ease and chicness—make life much easier. 

Shop ballet flats:

MIU MIU

Satin Bow Ballerina Flats

MANSUR GAVRIEL

Square Toe Ballerina

MANGO

Bow Leather Ballerina

TORY BURCH

Wrap Ballet Flat

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2. Moto Boots

On the runway:

PHOTO: COURTESY OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN; COURTESY OF COURRÈGES

Boot trends for fall? That's a given. Boots that make you feel like a baddie? Well, only moto boots can do that. F/W 22 collections marked the return of many "tough" trends like grunge, heavy-duty leather, and of course, the main attraction: moto boots. From Alexander McQueen's black pointy buckle-adorned booties to Courrèges knee-high moto boots in various hues, it's crystal clear that this fall we're being asked to step into our villain era. 

On the fashion set:

PHOTO: @NAOMIELIZEE; @ELIZAGRACEHUBER

And let the record show that the fashion set has headed this call already. Need proof? Just look how Balenciaga's Knee-High Cagole Leather boots have become a fast favorite over the past few months, even in the dead heat. If this style's speedy ascent is a sign of anything, it's that moto boots will be fall's baddest trend (in a good way). 

Shop moto boots:

BALENCIAGA

Cagole Leather Boots

FREE PEOPLE

Double Up Moto Boots

STEVE MADDEN

Fink Black

JIMMY CHOO

Biker Ii 35 Buckled Leather Knee Boots

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3. Mary Janes

On the runway:

PHOTO: COURTESY OF BOTTEGA VENETA; COURTESY OF VERSACE

When you think of Mary Jane shoes, do baby flats come to mind? If you are, I get it. But let the record show that this shoe style has grown into its own through F/W 22 collections. Just look to how Bottega Veneta showed crocodile Mary Jane heels with architectural heels and Versace spiced it up with multiple straps, a high-pointed platform, and a patent finish. The result is a shoe trend that honors the style's playful origins but is in no way playing games. 

On the fashion set:

PHOTO: @MICHELLACCC; @MARIA_BERNAD

Of course, while this shoe style has gotten a mature upgrade in recent runway collections, this style allows us to still be playful through styling. The fashion set has embraced this style by pairing it with prep-inspired looks and quirky suiting that's ideal for transitional weather. And the perfect reminder that a little playtime with a great pair of shoes is always a good move. 

Shop Mary Jane shoes:

STEVE MADDEN

Carly Black Leather

BY FAR

Ginny Patent-Leather Mary Jane Pumps

NODALETO

Bulla Babies Glossed-Leather Platform Mary Jane Pumps

REFORMATION

Abalonia Chunky Maryjane

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4. On Point

On the runway:

PHOTO: COURTESY OF COPERANI; COURTESY OF PRADA 

While the past few seasons have focused heavily on square-toe shoes, it seems that we're angling towards something new this coming season. F/W 22 collections brought back hard angles in footwear, as reflected in boots and heels with architectural structures, but most poignantly in pointy-toe shoes. From Coperani's slingback heels to Prada's Mary Janes, it's evident that we've reached a new point in footwear. 

On the fashion set:

PHOTO: @SHHTEPHS; @OUMAYMABOUMESHOULI

That new point is seen in how the fashion set has begun to embrace sharp-toe shoes again. Suddenly, a relaxed suit or tank dress gets an element of an edge when pointy-toe shoes are added into the mix—proving that the key to looking on-point in transitional weather is by opting for this shoe style.

Shop pointy-toe shoes:

PRADA

Sport-Sole Mesh Slingback Pumps

TONY BIANCO

Hope Dove Nappa 9.5cm Heels

ZARA

Patent Effect High Heeled Shoes

REISS

Banbury Pointy Toe Pump

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5. Prep School

On the runway:

PHOTO: COURTESY OF TODS; COURTESY OF GABRIELA HEARST

Remember that feeling of going shopping for back-to-school clothing as a kid? You may be well past that stage in your life, but you can still tap into the nostalgia thanks to the return of preppy aesthetics. Now, if you're still unsure of how to earn an A+ when tapping into this trend, then you'll want to start with your shoe choice. The easiest way to lean into the polished preschool look (seen in the F/W 22 collections of Tods, Gabriela Hearst, and Miu Miu) is by opting for a prep-inspired shoe like loafers or derby shoes. No matter which style you land on, you'll ace the assignment without a doubt. 

On the fashion set:

PHOTO: @GOSIABOY; @DAWN.TAN

Of course, we should note that polished footwear has been poppin' off with the fashion set for a while now. Still, it's not too late if you have yet to jump on the bandwagon. Simply invest in a pair of loafers or derby shoes with unique details to make the style stand out from the crowd and earn a few extra points. 

Shop preppy-inspired shoes:

GABRIELA HEARST

Tere Glossed-Leather Brogues

VINCE CAMUTO

Madrie Loafer

DR. MARTENS

1461 Quad Platform Derby

CHARLES & KEITH

Burgundy Perline Chunky Chain Loafers

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6. High Shine

On the runway:

PHOTO: COURTESY OF LOEWE; COURTESY OF JIL SANDER

Party shoes, revenge shoes, whatever you want to call them, have been at the forefront of the fashion's lexicon for the past few seasons. In part, you can blame the rise of risqué shoes on the shifting state of the world, but when it comes down to it, it's just because there are some amusing footwear trends at the moment. The most recent one is high shine. Spotted in the form of silver oversize bow sandals at Loewe and gold square-toe heels at Jil Sander, it's evident that metallic shoes had their shining moment in F/W 22 collections.

On the fashion set:

PHOTO: @SLIPINTOSTYLE; @NINASANDBECH

Frankly, we can't think of a better way to step into fall than in a pair of fun metallic shoes, and clearly, we're not the only ones. With the fashion set steadily rocking metallic platforms, heels, sandals, and boots, it's safe to say that this style will continue to dominate for the rest of the year. 

Shop metallic shoes:

BOTTEGA VENETA

Metallic Ruched Transluscent-Heel Pumps

SCHUTZ

Mary Up Specchio Leather Boot

CHELSEA PARIS

Ace Square Toe High Heel Sandals

FRANCO SARTO

Vana Flat

‘The question is: Are they moving to L.A. to contribute to the cultural landscape here or to take from it?’ one artist asks.

Call it the great Art Rush — but panning for affluent art collectors instead of gold nuggets.

The Los Angeles gallery scene is seeing an influx of established New York art galleries moving into town as of late — 11 so far are here or coming soon. Several venues opened this February, timed to the Frieze Los Angeles art fair; other openings are in the works for later this year or 2023.

Galleries tend to coagulate around other galleries, maximizing foot traffic. And the rash of incomers has created even more robust art hubs, particularly in Hollywood and the so-called Melrose Hill area of the city. New York’s Sean Kelly gallery, Marian Goodman Gallery and Lisson Gallery will join Regen Projects, Jeffrey Deitch, Kohn Gallery and others in Hollywood — already a bustling art pocket — where New York’s the Hole opened in April.

David Zwirner gallery, along with Shrine and Sargent’s Daughters, will join Morán Morán and the nonprofit art space LAXART in Melrose Hill. LAXART plans to debut its newly purchased building there in October.

Danziger Gallery opened a space in February in Santa Monica’s Bergamot Station; Pace in Los Angeles in April joined L.A.’s David Kordansky Gallery in the Mid-City area; Karma gallery will open in West Hollywood, where Albertz Benda opened a space in April.

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Got all that?

Part of what's driving the recent influx of New York galleries is circumstance — including healthy pandemic-era sales among many established galleries that are now poised for expansion, as well as L.A.'s current museum boom and its growing art collector community — but it's also a cyclical phenomenon, says Peter Goulds, founding director of the long-standing gallery L.A. Louver, which has operated in Venice for 47 years.

“It’s a very positive thing. Any development that shifts to new generations of dealers is a good barometer of the time we’re in,” Goulds says. “But this isn’t the first time this has happened. There’s a lineage of this evolution — galleries coming from New York and even Europe — we’re just at the next crossroads.”

Reports of the L.A. gallery scene having “its moment” seem to come every 10 or so years, often from East Coast media seemingly amazed that culture thrives amid sunshine and spinning the same cliches about artists migrating west being drawn by more accessible studio space and the alluring quality of the light — and the galleries following suit. Those aren’t inaccurate dynamics, but it’s a trite oversimplification regardless. The L.A. gallery scene has been a slow-brewing and ever-evolving string of interconnected moments, says art writer Hunter Drohojowska-Philp, author of “Rebels in Paradise: The Los Angeles Art Scene and the 1960s.”

There was an L.A. gallery surge in the ’60s that got waylaid by the recession of the ’70s; a surge in the ’80s and ’90s with art galleries responding to the radical experimentation coming out of art schools such as CalArts; and the proliferation of contemporary art fairs in the early 2000s, which raised the visibility of L.A. artists, collectors and curators internationally.

“And it seems like it’s been expanding ever since,” Drohojowska-Philp says. “Sure, L.A. is the recipient, now, of a whole new group of powerful galleries from the outside, and it will undoubtedly be beneficial culturally. But it’s a plus and a minus. The local galleries, which built and sustained and supported the art scene, will have more competition. And I hate the idea of the L.A. scene being defined, in any way, by these outside forces — that has the air of colonialization.”

So why the great march west among New York galleries now, and what does it mean for the city, its artists and collectors?

Nearly every one of the seven New York gallery owners or directors interviewed for this story cited the city’s particularly robust artist community, the rapidly expanding museum scene and the growing West Coast collector base among reasons for moving into L.A.

“If you are an artist and you’re trying to reach the whole world with your art, if it isn’t being seen in L.A., it’s not gonna happen,” says Pace CEO Marc Glimcher.

Glimcher has a history in L.A.: He and his father, Arne, in 1995 opened the Beverly Hills gallery PaceWildenstein, which they ran until closing in 2000. That period, Glimcher describes, felt promising for local galleries — Blum & Poe opened its doors in ’94, for one thing. But the current gallery expansion feels less burgeoning and more “essential,” Glimcher says, explaining why Pace, which recently announced it will be closing its Palo Alto location, has returned to L.A. 22 years later.

“Los Angeles has some of the most important artists in the world working here,” he says. “It has the most important thinkers, curators, museum people and collectors. And we’re seeing a significant rise in the number of collectors in L.A. or who spend time here — the tech community has moved a lot of its time and space here. Just look at who owns the homes in Malibu now versus five years ago.”

Sean Kelly says that his son, Thomas Kelly, a partner and director of the gallery, made a case for moving to L.A. about two years ago. “He came to us and laid out a program and said, ‘Look, these are our artists who are not represented in L.A. There is interest in them from other galleries. If we don’t do this, somebody else will take these artists.’”

Kelly says he sees the move into L.A. as a “two-way cross-fertilization.”

“Yeah, we’re gonna come to L.A.,” he says. “But we also want to make sure there’s plenty of space for us to respond to L.A. and bring part of L.A. to New York as well.”

“The last time I’ve seen a migration like this was Miami in the early 2000s shortly after Art Basel opened up [there],” says Thea Smolinski, an art advisor and private collections manager based in Eagle Rock. “The biggest difference, though, is how sustainable it feels right now. L.A. collectors are really invested in L.A. artists and galleries. A lot of my clients do their primary buying in L.A. Space is getting harder, but it’s an exciting time to be an artist in L.A.”

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Or is it?

Artist Greg Ito, who operates the family-owned gallery and project space Sow & Tailor downtown says the growth is a “double-edged sword” for artists. More galleries means more opportunities for exhibitions and sales. But to what end?

“A lot of these bigger galleries, they’re opening multiple spaces globally but also locally, so they go from having to schedule 10 shows a year to 20, 30, 40 shows a year, and they’re just churning out artists. The market is hot and everyone is buying everything, but it turns an artist’s work from intimate and critical into what feels like trading cards. The question is: Are they moving to L.A. to contribute to the cultural landscape here or to take from it?”

David Zwirner says a “dramatically” increased collector base not just in L.A. but throughout California played a role in his gallery’s move west — as did collectors in China, Hong Kong and Korea who prefer to meet in L.A. “But the most important reason is: This is such a vibrant artist community, and artists really want to have their work exhibited in L.A.,” he says. “That’s really what pushed me over the edge.”

The L.A. collector base may be growing, says Christopher Ford, a longtime L.A. gallery director at different outposts from the mid-’80s until 2017, but it’s changing — and not for the better, in his view.

“They’re not collecting for the same reasons. A handful of collectors built MOCA; they cared about art and Los Angeles," Ford says, referencing the museum founded by artists, some of whom were also collectors. "Now, the art world has become a casino. They’re often selling to people they know are probably going to flip it — it’s five-card monte on a cardboard box on a street corner.”

The gallery expansion is flowing in two directions, points out longtime art collector Beth Rudin DeWoody, with L.A.’s David Kordansky Gallery, Nino Mier Gallery and François Ghebaly opening additional spaces in New York.

“Dealers are looking for a wider audience for their artists,” Rudin DeWoody says. “The art world is bicoastal now and international with the art fairs. Most collectors don’t limit themselves to their local galleries.”

To what extent the gallery growth is sustainable remains to be seen. The New York galleries join an already-ballooning L.A. gallery scene. Several local galleries have recently opened larger or second spaces in the city or have plans for expansion. Hauser & Wirth will debut a second space in West Hollywood this fall; Night Gallery, downtown, expanded into a nearby space in January, doubling its square footage; Gaga & Reena Spaulings Los Angeles opened a larger Hollywood space in February; Nino Mier Gallery opened a new space in Glassell Park that month as well; and De Boer Gallery expanded its Boyle Heights space in early 2021, tripling its footprint.

Even smaller spaces are growing: Smart Objects, in Echo Park, expanded into an adjacent storefront, tripling its square footage. La Loma Projects, an artist-run space operating out of owner Kirk Nelson’s Pasadena home, opened a storefront in Highland Park last year.

But at a certain point, won’t the bottom drop out?

Not necessarily, says Sophie Perceval, co-founder of the Toronto-based research lab Wondeur AI. The market growth indicates local demand among collectors, she says, which then reinforces the attractiveness of the L.A. art scene for them. According to a 2022 UBS report on top U.S. art cities, which Wondeur AI contributed to, collectors view L.A. as a place to acquire work by top-tier, established artists more so than emerging artists.

“So what could be the impact of all these mega galleries expanding into L.A.?” Perceval says. “It’s going to reinforce the top end of the commercial gallery ecosystem, meaning the galleries showing more successful and established artists. It’s already a trend there.”

That doesn’t necessarily mean that the small to midsize galleries will suffer fewer sales, she says. “L.A. has such a high concentration of galleries, according to the report, that’s an indication there is business to support them.”

But doesn't rising inflation and a possible recession later this year or next mean the art market will likely contract, as it did in 2008 and 2009?

“We couldn’t rule it out, but [the Great Recession of 2008] was a once-in-a-lifetime downturn,” says Adam Fowler, a founding partner at CVL Economics, which authors the annual Otis College Report on the Creative Economy analyzing California’s creative industries. “There are certain luxury goods in an economy that aren’t impacted as much during softer downturns. And you can have downturns that are siloed in their impact.”

Technology, particularly social media, has made art more accessible and mainstream, Fowler adds. And that’s created a sort of democratization in the art world that’s leveled the playing field for L.A.

“There’s decentralization across the major gallery hubs,” Fowler says. “Consumers live all over the globe, and not all of them are gonna go to those gallery rows in New York and London anymore. And Los Angeles, in terms of demographics, is a little younger and has connections to the markets, especially of Asia and Latin America, that maybe New York doesn’t have in the same way.”

Ironically, the pandemic, which shuttered so many businesses, he says, has accelerated the recent gallery scene growth. “We’ve had two-plus years of pandemic that’s backlogged a lot of business and personal decisions,” he says. “Any time you put the brakes on markets, there’s often a glut of activity waiting to spill out.”

For Scott Ogden, owner of Shrine, which will share a divided L.A. storefront with Sargent’s Daughters, the pandemic led to the need for expansion.

“When we were forced to close, I thought it would be the end of everything,” Ogden says. “We quickly decided to do online shows, and I introduced e-commerce. We actually grew the last two years. More transactions. New contemporary artists came on. Still, there’s something special about seeing art in person. Now I find that if I meet a new artist, without L.A., the first physical show I can offer them is eight to 12 months away. L.A. felt like an interesting place to [expand].”

The art gallery and museum scenes may seem diametrically opposed in terms of missions — the former intent on selling, the latter focused on exhibiting and educating — but they’re “symbiotic,” says Pete Scantland, an art collector who serves on the board of L.A.’s Museum of Contemporary Art. “Museums rely on galleries to promote the careers of artists. It’s an ecosystem: Galleries provide commercial opportunities for artists to build a career. And the museums provide another essential role, which is showing and collecting the work of artists and preserving it for the public, contextualizing and interpreting the art.”

A robust gallery scene is “inevitably good” for all of the city’s nonprofits, not just museums, says Scott Stover, a leading philanthropy advisor specializing in arts and culture.

“When you have a more vibrant market presence, it should result in greater contributions to local nonprofits,” Stover says. “It’s not immediately obvious. But it can only be a benefit. Having more major galleries present will help facilitate art donations.”

Marian Goodman Gallery President and partner Philipp Kaiser, formerly a senior curator at MOCA, says deepening relationships with L.A. institutions was a primary draw of coming to L.A. “Art is a global business, but we want to give a physical presence to our artists in one of the most vibrant creative cities where there’s a lot of attention from curators and collectors,” he says. “Just being New York-centric is not enough anymore.”  

If the art world is global and has no boundaries, with galleries relying on virtual programming as well as art fairs and digital outreach for sales, then why open a physical storefront — or several — at all? Are bricks-and-mortar spaces just local, promotion-generating vehicles?

“The direct in-person experience, even with digital art, is not replaceable,” says gallerist Jeffrey Deitch. “But also: You want to be on the ground, cultivate patrons, be in it for the long run and give art to the museums, make a genuine contribution to the community.”

The art market may be nothing if not a guessing game, but one thing is certain: Parking in Deitch’s Hollywood neighborhood is going to get even harder.

Which raises the question: Is there room for everyone in L.A.?

“I’m delighted to welcome them,” says Deitch. “This will energize the local scene and draw even more people from around the U.S. and the world. It will be an important multiplier for the entire L.A. economy — and you’ll see it resonate in the culture.”